![]() ![]() ![]() The time savings for me is well worth the additional investment. If you are a LR user I suggest you take a look at the updates they did with LR6. Not only that, but it's snappy and previews generate much faster than before. This is going to save me a lot of time for my workflow. I just installed it and ran through some standard workflows such as 32-bit HDR and panorama stitching. This will result in Lightroom outputting a merged image directly to the same Lightroom project you were working from.After reading all of the new features and enhancements in Lightroom 6 I've been waiting to get my hands on it. All you have to do is select the images you'd like to merge, right click, navigate to the 'Photo Merge' menu, and then choose 'HDR.' Click the 'Auto Align' checkbox, you can choose whether or not you'd like the 'Auto Tone' checkbox checked (if you check it, you'll get a good idea of what the balance will look like, but you can get the same effect by choosing 'auto' in the develop pane of Lightroom once the exposures are merged), and finally, choose 'none' for Deghost Amount. However, be aware, they are a bit more advanced and detailed and will take a bit more getting used to.Īdditionally, as of the original date of this writing, Adobe has included an 'HDR Merge' feature directly in Lightroom that works extremely well. It’s worth mentioning here that, alternatively to Enfuse, once you’re comfortable and are looking for more control and fully-featured options, feel free to migrate to other HDR programs such as Aurora HDR, Photomatix. Makes it easiest to find and know where it exists. I typically save to the same folder as the rest of the images in the current set I’m editing. Output” panel, set where you’d like to file to be saved and other personal settings. Basically, I set 'exposure weight’ all the way up to 1, and both ‘saturation weight’ and ‘contrast weight’ are set up to. ![]() I have played with several settings and the ones in this screenshot seem to work best for me. Using the default settings, the contrast and saturation will not normally work out very well for architecture and real estate photography. ![]() Auto-Align” panel, if you used a tripod, be sure to un-check ‘Automatically align images.’ If you weren’t using a tripod, firstly, shame on you! Secondly, go ahead and click the ‘Automatically align images’ option. Configuration" panel the way it is, on the "2. The next step is to highlight those exposures in Lightroom, and then navigate to ‘File' menu, to ‘Plug-In Extras' menu, to ‘Blend exposures using LR/Enfuse’. Often times if you hit the ‘auto’ tone button in Lightroom’s Develop pane, it’ll take care of a lot of this on its own and you could end up with a solid frame to use. Now in the fourth exposure, the one in which you used the flash to expose for the outside scene, i’ll usually pull down the highlights just a bit so I can make out the details very well in the outside scene, and then I’ll open up the shadows about 30-50% to reveal a bit of details especially around the edges of the window frame or door frame. Be conservative with how much you open your shadows based on your camera and sensor. I’ll then usually pull the highlights down on the overexposed exposure, and sometimes I pull the shadows up in the underexposed frame, but not too much as that can introduce some noise. Use the first three bracketed exposures, and make any adjustments you see fit, starting with white balance, where ‘Auto’ does a great job these days. Now that you have your exposures as described in Part 1, pull them into Adobe Lightroom. Here in part 2, we explain how to post-process these exposures. In Part 1, we explained the process of getting the proper exposures on location for architecture and real estate photography. ![]()
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